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Wines & Tunes with Ryan

By Author:

Amber Turpin

Photography by:

Coline LeConte

Ancora Vino is a favorite locally owned wine shop, with locations in Morgan Hill, San Jose and Los Gatos. Part of what makes Ancora Vino so great is actually what makes Ancora Vino so great is actually who, in part being Certified Sommelier Ryan Smith. He is a wine geek in the best way, working to make wine accessible and approachable by passing down his knowledge to all who walk through the Ancora doors.

Certified Sommelier Ryan Smith

His wine palate is top notch; just ask him how many times he took his Level 2 Certified Sommelier Examination (the answer is just once, he nailed it on his first try). We asked him to give us some help choosing local wines that would be great for summer, along with some music pairings for each one, picked from the Ancora Vino vinyl collection.

2020 Windy Oaks
Sparkling Albariño
Arroyo Seco, California

$45

“This is a bit of a hidden gem in the Windy Oaks portfolio—sparkling Albariño made in the Champagne method, and given extended lees aging to give it a rich, full, creamy body … wonderful with sunny days and oysters, fried calamari or goat cheese crostini.”

Windy Oaks Sparkling Albarino paired with Love for Sale by Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga

Flavor/Aroma: Brioche notes, all underpinned by the grape’s naturally zesty acidity and super fresh citrus fruit.
Music Album Pairing: Love for Sale by Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga, 2021.

“This album blew me away—taking Lady Gaga, a modern pop star known for her high energy, synth-heavy modern sound, and pairing her with old school music, recording techniques and the master of effortless cool: Tony Bennett. Not only is this just plain good sparkling drinking music, but the parallel struck me— take the old school technique (Champagne method sparkling production) and add a new, lively, zesty performer (Albariño). The results are delicious?”

2024 Neely
Chardonnay Bee Block
Santa Cruz Mountains, California

$60

“Neely is in Portola Valley, the far north reaches of theSanta Cruz Mountains AVA, just a few minutes from the Alpine Inn. Winemaker Sarah Green’s first full vintage at the helm was 2024, and she knocked it out of the park. This Chardonnay feels much richer and more serious than the low alcohol (12.5%) suggests. All of these wines are block specific and made in tiny quantities. Do yourself a favor and visit their tasting room—no mountain roads are required!”

Neely Chardonnay from Santa Cruz Mountains paired with Simpatico by Gary McFarland and Gabor Szabo

Flavor/Aroma: Zesty stone fruit and a mouthfeel that balances creaminess (but not buttery) with smokin’ acidity and plenty of chalky, salty notes.
Music Album Pairing: Simpático by GaryMcFarland and Gábor Szabó, 1966.

This super-hip record from anAmerican vibraphonist and Hungarian jazz guitarist takes old favorites, including Beatles tracks, and adds all kinds of modern, exotic flourishes. Overall, it’s recognizable yet distinctive, based on old-school cool but with a modern touch, just like this Chardonnay.”

2024 Marty Mathis
Godello ‘Guichard Vineyard’
Santa Cruz Mountains, California

$55

“Marty Mathis, head winemaker and owner of the venerable Kathryn Kennedy estate, shows his hand hereat this Spanish white grape, rarely seen in the U.S. … It blows people away when I pour it for them blind.”

Marty Mathis Godello 'Guichard Vineyard' from the Santa Cruz Mountains paired with Sketches of Spain by Miles Davis

Flavor/Aroma: Like a lovechild between Chardonnay andSauvignon Blanc, medium bodied, quietly delicious and well balanced.
Music Album Pairing: Sketches of Spain by Miles Davis, 1960.

“Sketches of Spain came about when Miles Davis’s wife, Frances, took him to a flamenco show. Inspired, he bought every flamenco record he could find and threw himself into making an album with these new sonic landscapes he had discovered. Marty Mathis works in much the same way. He told me that a trip to Spain had made him fall in love with Spanish wines, particularly Godello and Albariño, and that when he came back to the States, he knew he had to try his hand with these grapes. He planted this vineyard himself in 2015 and the results are already amazing.”

2023 Assiduous
Pinot Noir Volkman Vinyeard
Santa Cruz Mountains, California

$35

“This is our shop’s best selling and most requested local wine. Keegan Mayo has quietly been making some of the best wines in the area under his small personal label. Everyone who tastes this magical juice loves it.”

Assiduous Pinot Noir 'Volkmann Vineyard' paired with Beyond the Sun by Orgone

Flavor/Aroma: Light, smooth and supple, with amazingly fresh raspberry fruit with mint, forest and herbs, finishing with a delightful black raspberry tea note. Tannins are mellow and acidity is bright.
Music Album Pairing: Beyond the Sun by Orgōne, 2015.

This killer LA band provides a sunny mix of rock, soul and funk. They’re a band that seems simple at first, but eventually you realize there’s serious depth there, and by the end of the album, you can’t believe you once thought it was simple, just like Keegan’s wines.”

2023 Trail Marker
Pinot Noir
Santa Cruz Mountains, California

$38

“This wine has a lot going for it—much of the fruit comes from the renowned Saveria Vineyard in Corralitos, farmed by Prudy Foxx, and winemaker/owner Drew Huffine has worked at a slew of excellent Pinot producers. The combination of the excellent, cool, extremely fresh 2023 vintage and vinification without new oak gives this wine a light, bright buoyancy.”

Trail Marker Pinot Noir paired with Naturally by JJ Cale

Flavor/Aroma: Classic Santa Cruz Mountain herbal, spice and floral notes.
Music Album Pairing: Naturally by J.J. Cale, 1971.

“This understated, almost rustic country rock album is just so easygoing that you never want it to end. Just like the Trail Marker, there’s no fl ash or frills, just a perfect, pure album that you can enjoy all day.

Amber Turpin

Amber Selene Turpin is a freelance food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains. She is a regular contributor to the Mercury News, Edible Magazines, 7×7, Marin Living, Diablo and the Slow Wine Guide, with work appearing in Bon Appétit, EatingWell and many other publications over the past 20 years.

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Coline LeConte

Coline LeConte

Coline brings to life stories about our food systems and the food we eat as Publisher and Editor in Chief of Edible Silicon Valley. She has been a contributor to both Edible Silicon Valley and Edible Monterey Bay, and has served as a Good Food Judge for pickles and, most recently, chocolate.

Before her current role, she worked closely with small, artisanal food and beverage businesses rooted in sustainability, guiding them through competitive brand strategy and design to help elevate their brands. Her passion for healthy eating, good food, travel and photography continues to drive her adventures.

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